Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Peter Luger, the venerable Brooklyn steakhouse that launched a thousand spin-offs, is frequently imitated but rarely bested. Arturo McLeod, the chef behind Benjamin Steakhouse in the Dylan hotel, who spent two decades in the Luger kitchen before setting out on his own, comes pretty close. The big-ticket item is the Prime aged porterhouse for two, a juicy gargantuan steak that’s pre-cut before it arrives on the table. Service is attentive enough that most diners will never have to scoop chunks of steak onto their plate. Filet mignon is full-flavored and tender, while the rib-eye is surprisingly bland. Sides are essential---not just because the creamed spinach, the not-greasy onion rings, or plump and tender crab cake seem to complement the steak so well. The lobster bisque is rich and smooth; the fried calamari crisp and compulsive. The restaurant’s interior, full of sumptuous wood and leather, is warm and masculine. A perfect match for a macho meal.
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